Parrotlet Care |
Parrotlets will bring you many years of companionship and entertainment if they are properly cared for. Parrotlets are interesting birds – they are often called "large birds in small bodies." They are quick to bond with favorite humans, and they are intelligent! Although they are not the best talkers of the Parrot world, parrotlets are capable of mimicking speech and other sounds.
The most popular and readily available species of Parrotlet in the United States is the Celestial, or Pacific Parrotlet. The taxonomic name of the Pacific Parrotlet is “Forpus Coelestis.” Pacific Parrotlets come in many different colors, including: Green, Blue, Yellow, and White. Other, less common mutations include Turquoise, Pied, Fallow, Marbled, Dark Factor, Lutino, Albino, and Grey. Regardless of your parrotlet’s physical appearance, it will require routine veterinary care, appropriate diet, exercise, psychological stimulation, training, and a safe environment.
Bringing your Parrotlet Home
Parrotlets are naturally inquisitive. They readily investigate new sights and sounds; however, a Parrotlet can feel intimidated in an unfamiliar place. When you bring your new bird home, he or she will need a few days to adjust to new surroundings, preferably in a quiet space. Make sure your bird has fresh food and water available, and some millet.
Ok, so it’s been a day or two since you brought your Parrotlet home. She has settled in nicely, and it is time to begin building trust with her. *It is important to remember that you GET OUT what you PUT IN. The more effort you give to your bird, the more effort she will give back to you.*
Two or three, fifteen-minute training sessions per day work best – birds need a break, too! Make sure your bird has found its new source of water and food.
Building Trust
*Be patient with your bird! They are little individuals - sometimes they have other agendas!*
Housing
The bigger the cage, the better!
Be sure to avoid direct sunlight and drafty areas when placing your bird’s cage. DO NOT place your bird in the kitchen or in an area where you will be regularly using non-stick cooking pans. The fumes that are given off by Teflon and non-stick cookware are highly toxic and can kill your bird in minutes.
Have fun with it! You get to be your bird’s home designer, after all.
Toys
The purpose of a “toy” is to entertain your bird. There are several different types of toys:
Grooming Requirements – To Trim? Or Not to Trim?
There are many, many diet options for your Parrotlet: Fresh and (thawed) frozen fruits and veggies, bird seed mixes come in an unlimited variety, there are pelleted mixes, there are dried food mixes, and there are numerous supplements and treats on the market, as well. Often, the best diet is a mix of these foods.
A Brief Overview of Some Common Parrotlet Behaviors
Pacific Parrotlets have unique behaviors, just like every other living creature on Earth. I’ve seen many of these behaviors throughout the years, and I have had many questions about these behaviors from concerned or interested Parrotlet parents. Below, some of these behaviors are listed and briefly discussed.
Congratulations on becoming a Parrotlet owner! Parrotlets are truly “large birds in small bodies”. They demand time from you each day, they can be noisy, they are messy, and they can be downright stubborn; but, they are intelligent, they are beautiful, they are individuals, and they can (and will) fiercely love you.
Please contact me with any questions, suggestions, or concerns that you may have. Thank you, and enjoy your new Companion!
Sincerely,
Alexandra
Call/ text 208-819-5367
Email [email protected]
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK @ ALEXANDRA’S PARROTLETS LLC
All of the information and photographs contained herein are the sole property of Alexandra’s Parrotlets LLC and may not be used or reproduced without expressly written consent by Alexandra E Ward of Nampa, Idaho.
The most popular and readily available species of Parrotlet in the United States is the Celestial, or Pacific Parrotlet. The taxonomic name of the Pacific Parrotlet is “Forpus Coelestis.” Pacific Parrotlets come in many different colors, including: Green, Blue, Yellow, and White. Other, less common mutations include Turquoise, Pied, Fallow, Marbled, Dark Factor, Lutino, Albino, and Grey. Regardless of your parrotlet’s physical appearance, it will require routine veterinary care, appropriate diet, exercise, psychological stimulation, training, and a safe environment.
Bringing your Parrotlet Home
Parrotlets are naturally inquisitive. They readily investigate new sights and sounds; however, a Parrotlet can feel intimidated in an unfamiliar place. When you bring your new bird home, he or she will need a few days to adjust to new surroundings, preferably in a quiet space. Make sure your bird has fresh food and water available, and some millet.
Ok, so it’s been a day or two since you brought your Parrotlet home. She has settled in nicely, and it is time to begin building trust with her. *It is important to remember that you GET OUT what you PUT IN. The more effort you give to your bird, the more effort she will give back to you.*
Two or three, fifteen-minute training sessions per day work best – birds need a break, too! Make sure your bird has found its new source of water and food.
Building Trust
- Sit near the cage, but do NOT lean/ stand over it.
- Begin by calmly talking to her, use her name!
- Use treats!
- “Step-Up!”
*Be patient with your bird! They are little individuals - sometimes they have other agendas!*
Housing
The bigger the cage, the better!
- Maintaining a clean cage is important regardless of cage size. Change papers once you notice excessive droppings/ food. Once per week is usually the maximum amount of time between cage changes. If you are regularly feeding “chop” or fresh fruits/ veggies, you will likely be cleaning your bird’s cage more frequently.
Be sure to avoid direct sunlight and drafty areas when placing your bird’s cage. DO NOT place your bird in the kitchen or in an area where you will be regularly using non-stick cooking pans. The fumes that are given off by Teflon and non-stick cookware are highly toxic and can kill your bird in minutes.
- Number of perches depends on the size of the cage; however, we highly recommend manzanita perches and perches of varying textures/widths. This allows your bird’s feet to be exercised and to relax. The highest perch in the cage will undoubtedly be used for sleeping. Be cautious not to place perches over food and water dishes – poopy food and water will result!
- Another idea is “toy rotation”. You rotate toys in and out of your bird’s cage every time you change it. This way, your bird will have the opportunity to rediscover “old” toys as “new” toys.
Have fun with it! You get to be your bird’s home designer, after all.
Toys
The purpose of a “toy” is to entertain your bird. There are several different types of toys:
- “Indestructible” toys, such as those made of plastics, metals, and acrylics are great. Parrotlets seem to be fond of mirrors and bells! Be sure to periodically check toys to make sure they are not broken – if they are, then promptly remove/ replace them.
- Destructible toys can be anything from paper balls to wood blocks to that favorite manzanita perch. Get creative! Wrapping a favorite treat in some tissue paper is an excellent way to keep your bird’s foraging instincts exercised. Try using some clean rope to tie knots around the cage bars. Another good idea is a mineral block. It will keep your parrotlet’s mineral/calcium replenished and it provides a way to use his/ her beak.
- Interactive toys are newer on the market. These often include toys that make noises when triggered. These are usually more expensive (and may fall under the category of “indestructible toys”).
Grooming Requirements – To Trim? Or Not to Trim?
- Keep your bird’s wings clipped if you plan on taking your bird on outings or if you are new to training. Typically, your breeder will trim flight feathers by request or a veterinarian can teach you how to do it yourself. It is quick and painless (like a haircut) and it prevents your bird from flying into windows and breaking its neck or wings. This is especially important if your bird doesn’t have much experience with hand-training. Feathers are molted out and grow back in, so they will have to be clipped periodically.
- Recall training is worth consideration if you know your bird will be spending large amounts of time out of his/her cage. Some bird owners decide not to trim their bird’s wings. A bad wing trim can contribute to feather regrowth problems, feather picking problems, and balance/ development problems.
- Provide a fresh dish of water for your bird to bathe in. Not all birds will take to this miniature version of a bird bath, but when they do, they enjoy it. If your bird seems uninterested in a dish bath, you can use a spray bottle to lightly mist your bird. You can also take your bird into the shower with you – just be sure to close the toilet lid to avoid drowning accidents!
- Birds typically maintain their own beaks and toenails. Providing a perch with a gently abrasive surface will keep toenails to length. Birds often chew their own toenails and grind their own beaks to maintain them, as well. A bird’s beak should close almost completely. A small gap between the upper and lower mandible is normal. In rare cases, beak overgrowth or malalignment occurs and a veterinarian will have to help shape/ trim the beak. Beak overgrowth may also be a sign of organ damage, and I highly recommend visiting your local avian veterinarian.
There are many, many diet options for your Parrotlet: Fresh and (thawed) frozen fruits and veggies, bird seed mixes come in an unlimited variety, there are pelleted mixes, there are dried food mixes, and there are numerous supplements and treats on the market, as well. Often, the best diet is a mix of these foods.
- Fresh foods are the best foods for your bird! Apples, bananas, strawberries, grapes, broccoli, cauliflower, spinach, cooked beans, oats, coconut, tomato, jalapeño peppers, oranges, watermelon, kale, pineapple, mango, papaya, carrots, green beans, corn, sweet potato, and bell peppers are all safe bird foods. Of course, wash well before feeding! There are many additional sources on the web for bird-safe foods. Do not leave fruit/ vegetables/ egg food in the cage for more than two or three hours. The moist food provides a good environment for bacteria to grow – and spoilage can make your bird sick.*
- Another, less expensive option is feeding thawed or cooked frozen mixes. It is convenient to unthaw a small portion of frozen fruit/ vegetables to feed during the day without worrying about the unused bag of food spoiling.
- The idea behind pelleted food is that all of the nutrition that your bird needs is mixed together. The hope is that these pellets will provide the bird with all the essential nutrients it needs to stay healthy. I highly recommend the brand called “Roudybush.”
- Seed mixes are what they are. Most seed mixes contain red and white millet, sunflower seed, safflower seeds, and a type of pellet. Better seedmixes contain dry carrots, peas and other fruits/ veggies, hemp seed, flax seed, dry corn, and oats.
- A readily-available source of calcium is crucial to your parrotlet’s health. Commonly available in pet stores are “cuttle bones”, which provide calcium. Cuttle bones also serve to keep beaks from overgrowing. Another, highly recommended source of calcium and other minerals is a “mineral block”. Cuttle bones are all-nautral, as they come from the bone of a cuttle fish.
- I use a high quality seed mix that contains dry fruit and veggies, a seed mix, dry greens, and Roudybush breeder crumble. I also supplement my breeder pairs with hemp seed, flax seed, black oil sunflower, and niger thistle seed. This mix allows the birds some dietary variety; however, it still has essential nutrition. I also mix home-made egg food in a dish separate from seed mix. Egg food consists of whole eggs (with shell and all), bread, and niger thistle. For breeding pairs, I may supplement with additional vitamin/ amino acid/ calcium supplements, as well. I also provide my birds with “chop” or “mash” once or twice per week per week depending on seasonal fruits and veggies. Chop is a bunch of fruits and veggies chopped or mashed together.
- I also provide a variety of sprouted seeds, including: red wheat berry, garbanzo beans, red lentils, French green lentils, and mung beans. You can find additional information on seed sprouting on the World Wide Web. There are many excellent resources and tutorials out there.
- I cannot stress how important it is to provide a source of calcium for your Parrotlet – especially hens! Hens (females) are capable of laying eggs; although they will be infertile eggs if there is not a male Parrotlet present. For a bird to make an egg, calcium must be present in the bird’s body. If the hen’s body does not have enough calcium there can be any number of health issues – including “egg binding”, which requires immediate veterinary attention. So, PLEASE make a mineral block available to your Parrotlet at all times.
- Millet sprays are another great treat. They are high in carbohydrates and provide quick energy. I use millet primarily as a weaning food and as a training treat.
A Brief Overview of Some Common Parrotlet Behaviors
Pacific Parrotlets have unique behaviors, just like every other living creature on Earth. I’ve seen many of these behaviors throughout the years, and I have had many questions about these behaviors from concerned or interested Parrotlet parents. Below, some of these behaviors are listed and briefly discussed.
- Regurgitation. Regurgitation looks like your bird wiggles his or her neck to regurgitate food. This behavior may or may not be accompanied by regurgitated food. I have found that it is often “dry” regurgitation, unless a parrotlet is feeding a mate or chicks. Aptly named “the wiggle-neck dance” in parrotlets. In the wild, it is a behavior that parrotlets exhibit when they are attempting to “feed” their mate or offspring. In captivity, Parrotlets will regurgitate for a favorite toy or a favorite human’s hand. It is a behavior that may indicate Springtime hormones are in full-force, and it may be accompanied by additional mating-related behaviors. You can see an example of what this looks like at the following YouTube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbDB_5rUkmI
- Copulatory behaviors. Also called “humping,” parrotlets may “grind” their tail feathers on a favorite toy, perch, or on a favorite human’s hand. This behavior may be accompanied by wing flashing, nipping, and growling, and may be preceded by a brief dance back and forth on a perch and chirping. When parrotlets are exposed to the right amount of sunlight and nutrition, a parrotlet’s hormones will spike in preparation for mating, producing eggs, and raising offspring. If your bird is doing this with toys or a favorite human hand, I recommend setting him/her down for a short time-out, so that the behavior is not encouraged. If aggression occurs, I caution that you place the bird in his/her cage for a short time to calm down. If your bird has any “snuggle huts” or hiding places in the cage that he/she may perceive as a nest, I highly recommend removing those items. If your bird perceives the items as a nesting site, he/she may become extremely aggressive and territorial around that item. In those cases, I recommend removing the toy/ snuggly hut, and reducing the amount of light that your bird gets daily by 2-3 hours. You can see an example of what this looks like at the following YouTube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qjBCzKqJ2E and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwfYkRCLkGE&t=108s
- Egg laying. This is specific to female birds, but it is worth mentioning. Before laying eggs, you may likely notice the above behaviors in your bird, followed by an increase in the size and volume of droppings. Your bird may begin to spend more and more time in what she perceives as a “nest.” If your female parrotlet lays eggs, you should NOT take them away, but you should allow her to sit on them and abandon them at the appropriate time. As long as she was not exposed to a male parrotlet, the eggs will not be fertile. Make sure your bird has access to a good source of calcium at this time, to avoid becoming egg-bound. If you decide not to allow her to keep her eggs, I recommend replacing them with “dummy eggs” or plastic eggs. You can find these online or at your local Parrot store. When your parrotlet decides that she is done sitting on her eggs, I recommend removing the item that she laid her eggs in or under, to prevent future egg-laying. Chronic egg-laying hens should be taken to an avian veterinarian for further health evaluations. You can see an example of what this looks like at the following YouTube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ae82Deni8QE Birds in this second video are in a cowboy boot. This may look like cute fun to us, but to the birds, they perceive it as a place to nest and lay eggs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRJ_fLDNINQ
Congratulations on becoming a Parrotlet owner! Parrotlets are truly “large birds in small bodies”. They demand time from you each day, they can be noisy, they are messy, and they can be downright stubborn; but, they are intelligent, they are beautiful, they are individuals, and they can (and will) fiercely love you.
Please contact me with any questions, suggestions, or concerns that you may have. Thank you, and enjoy your new Companion!
Sincerely,
Alexandra
Call/ text 208-819-5367
Email [email protected]
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK @ ALEXANDRA’S PARROTLETS LLC
All of the information and photographs contained herein are the sole property of Alexandra’s Parrotlets LLC and may not be used or reproduced without expressly written consent by Alexandra E Ward of Nampa, Idaho.